Protein applications in cosmetic products

Protein applications in cosmetic products
Mina Morovati,¹ Mahsa Heidari,^2,*
Introduction: Proteins have various uses in various industries. One of their uses is in cosmetic products. Proteins can be obtained from plants, animals, and microorganism cells [1]. The history of protein use goes back many years when protein (grain flour, animal blood, milk, and egg whites) was used for cosmetic purposes in all major ancient civilizations [2]. However, the first logical use of proteins in cosmetics dates back to the 1950s [2]. The term cosmeceutical was first coined by Albert Kligman in 1984 to refer to products that are used topically and can make changes to the skin [3]. Availability and economy have been the main criteria for selecting protein sources [2]. However, due to increasing consumer concerns about the safety of animal products, industries have shifted to vegetable proteins [4].
Methods: In this study, the collected information of 7 valid scientific articles with the keywords related to the subject and without time limitation has been used. Articles were collected using the Google Scholar search engine.
Results: There is a strong relationship between cosmetic activity and its physicochemical properties. Studies have shown that the most important characteristics of the cosmetic activity of proteins and their hydrolysis are substantivity with the surface of the hair and skin. The outermost layer of skin and hair is made of more or less compressed keratin. Substantivity is related to the ability to make weak or strong bonds with the stratum corneum or hair cuticle. When using proteins and their hydrolyzates, a layer of polypeptides forms on the surface of the skin and hair. Few studies have confirmed the ability of molecules with a molecular weight of less than 3,000 Da to penetrate deeper into the skin (dermis) and hair (cortex). Experiments have shown that peptides can easily penetrate the cuticle and tend to accumulate in the cortex [5]. Proteins and their hydrolyzates can be used as cell growth stimulation in cosmetic products. Another property of proteins in cosmetic products is the strengthening effect of foam on them. Water-soluble proteins, like other hydrophilic polymers, stabilize the foam. They also have anti-irritant, buffering, and viscosity control properties and soften the skin and hair [5]. In cosmetic products, proteins and their hydrolyzates are mainly used for moisturizing agents. High molecular weight polypeptides are used as moisturizing film formers, and low molecular weight peptides are used for products that require high substantivity, such as regenerative hair products [5]. Exogenous proteins can bind to detergents to interact with skin keratin to form a colloidal layer to prevent the detergent from penetrating and attacking the skin [6]. Tomita et al. Showed that hydrolyzed protein with a molecular weight of less than 1000 Da can stimulate the proliferation of human skin cells and is effective for hair and skin conditioning [7]. Less molecular-weight hydrolyzed proteins may be able to protect the skin less than native proteins. The purpose of adding proteins to cosmetic products is mainly as a moisturizing, adsorbing, ﬁlm forming, or protective properties. The film-forming properties of cosmetic products (emulsion and foam) are the most important properties for conditioning and cleansing [6].
Conclusion: The cosmetics industry is one of the growing industries in the world. Natural proteins extracted from animal and vegetable sources, with the appropriate characteristics mentioned above, can be used as functional components in the formulation of cosmetic products.
Keywords: cosmetics industry, protein, natural resource, skin and hair care